Coral feeding is one of those hobby topics where everyone has an opinion and most of them contradict each other. Some reefers swear by powders. Some target-feed every LPS individually. Some just trust the lights and zooxanthellae.
The truth is that different corals need different things. Here's a practical breakdown of what to feed which type, and when live food makes a real difference.
How corals actually feed
Most reef corals get the bulk of their energy from photosynthesis, via the symbiotic zooxanthellae living in their tissue. But almost all corals also actively feed on suspended particles, ranging from dissolved organic carbon to live zooplankton.
The proportion varies by species:
- SPS corals. 80 to 95% from photosynthesis, 5 to 20% from feeding.
- LPS corals. 60 to 80% photosynthesis, 20 to 40% from feeding.
- Soft corals. 70 to 90% photosynthesis, 10 to 30% feeding.
- Non-photosynthetic (NPS) corals. 0% photosynthesis, 100% feeding.
The percentages aren't fixed. Heavy feeding can shift the balance in any species, and feeding-driven growth tends to outperform light-driven growth in most cases.
SPS corals (Acropora, Montipora, Stylophora)
SPS corals have small polyps and feed on tiny particles: amino acids, dissolved organics, bacteria, and very small zooplankton.
- Live phytoplankton. Cells in the 2 to 10 micron range work for SPS via direct uptake of dissolved nutrients released by the phyto.
- Amino acid supplements. Effective and well-documented.
- Coral powders. Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy, and similar work for SPS provided they're fine enough.
- Live copepod nauplii. Small enough for SPS polyps to capture.
LPS corals (Acanthastrea, Euphyllia, Trachyphyllia)
LPS corals have larger fleshy polyps and can capture noticeably bigger food. They benefit most from active feeding:
- Frozen mysis or krill. The classic LPS food. Target-feed at lights-off.
- Live mysis or copepods. Trigger stronger feeding responses than frozen.
- Pellet-based coral foods. Most LPS will accept appropriately sized pellets.
- Live phytoplankton. Mostly indirect benefit (feeds pods, which feed corals).
LPS feeding response is one of the easiest signals in the hobby. If polyps inflate hard within minutes of dosing, your food is working.
Soft corals (Sinularia, Sarcophyton, Zoas)
Soft corals are usually the least demanding feeders. Most do well with:
- Live phytoplankton. Particularly good for Xenia and pulsing species.
- Pod populations from a refugium. Self-sustaining feeding.
- Light dosing of coral powders. Useful but rarely required.
Heavy target feeding isn't necessary for most soft corals. They'll grow happily on phyto and ambient particulate matter.
Non-photosynthetic corals (Tubastrea, Dendrophyllia, Scleronephthya)
NPS corals are the food-dependent extreme. Without daily heavy feeding, they slowly waste away. Requirements:
- Live or quality frozen zooplankton. Daily, ideally multiple times per day.
- Phytoplankton. Continuous dosing for filter-feeding species like Scleronephthya.
- Pulsed feeding. Many NPS corals do better when food is concentrated in a short pulse rather than spread thin.
NPS corals are not beginner livestock. If you're not running a separate feeding system or willing to feed twice daily forever, don't keep them.
When live food specifically matters
Live food beats frozen or powders in three scenarios:
- Triggering polyp extension. Live phyto and pods make corals open up in ways powders rarely do.
- Feeding NPS corals. Most NPS species refuse anything that doesn't move or wasn't alive recently.
- Supporting overall reef health. Live food sustains the broader microfauna (pods, amphipods, larval inverts) that corals also feed on.
For everyday feeding of typical SPS, LPS, and softies, a mix of frozen, powders, and occasional live food works fine. Don't feel like you have to dose live food every day for a healthy reef.
The bottom line
Match the food to the coral. Powders and frozen handle most of the work for SPS, LPS, and soft corals. Live food becomes essential for NPS species and makes a noticeable difference in coral colour and polyp activity across the board.
Feed at lights-off when polyps are most extended, dose phyto regularly, and let your refugium do the heavy lifting.
